What truly amazes me as a writer is the incredible diversity of India, a country that never ceases to inspire an art enthusiast like me.
Whether it’s the art, music, or cuisine, there are endless sources of inspiration to create something extraordinary. As you travel from the northern to the southern regions, or from the eastern to the western landscapes, everything changes – the people, the stories, the folklore, and, of course, the climate and cuisine.
When speaking of South India, it is impossible to overlook its vibrant culture and magnificent architecture. The interplay of bright colors, lush greenery, and the distinct salt-tinged air makes this part of India truly unique, drawing visitors from across the world. One such fascinating destination is Chettinad, the homeland of the Nattukottai Chettiars (Nagarathar), a prosperous banking and business community. The name Chettinad refers to a region comprising 56 villages in Sivaganga district and 20 in Pudukottai district, historically ruled by the Ramnad kingdom of Pandya Nadu.
Despite lacking the typical tourist attractions like beaches or high-altitude hills, Chettinad captivates visitors with its opulent mansions, which stand as architectural marvels amid the dry, arid landscape. These grand residences, some over 300 years old, whisper tales of generations that have lived under their roofs. The Chettiar community, originally traders and merchants dealing in salt, gems, textiles, and jewelry, controlled a significant portion of India’s banking economy in the 19th century. Their legacy is reflected in the stunning mansions that still stand, some well-preserved as heritage properties, while others fall into gradual ruin or remain locked away.
These mansions are more than just homes; they are repositories of history, witnessing generations of love, companionship, laughter, sorrow, and celebration. Architecturally, they are astonishing, featuring well-planned drainage systems, intricately carved wooden doors, and walls adorned with breathtaking artwork.
Where to Visit?
Athangudi Palace, Karaikudi: The grand Athangudi Palace showcases the finest elements of Chettiar mansions. For an entry fee of just INR 50, visitors can marvel at its open courtyards, elegant verandahs, and the seamless fusion of European and Indian architectural styles. Built in the early 20th century, the palace is adorned with imported wood, marble, tiles, and mirrors from around the world. Its exquisite interiors, meticulously maintained over the years, offer a glimpse into the grandeur of the Chettiars’ past.
Ariyakkudi Thiruvangadamudaiyan Temple: A visit to South India is incomplete without exploring its temples. The Ariyakkudi Thiruvangadamudaiyan Temple, dedicated to Lord Srinivasa, was built in the 17th century by Sevugan Chettiar, a devout Saivite. Legend has it that Lord Venkateswara appeared to him in a dream, instructing him to build a temple in his village. Today, this temple stands as a testament to unwavering faith and showcases breathtaking Dravidian architecture that captivates every visitor.
Thirumayam Fort: Built in 1687 by Raja Raghunatha Thevar of Ramanathapuram, Thirumayam Fort sits atop a hillock, encompassing temples, caves, a jail, and a mysterious pond. My guide, Kavita, excitedly narrated the fort’s history, but what truly piqued my curiosity was a natural water pond at the summit. Despite the fort’s elevation and arid surroundings, the water level remains unchanged throughout the year – a mystery that adds to the fort’s allure. Climbing to the highest point of the fort, I was rewarded with a breathtaking 360-degree view of the region, an experience that left me spellbound.
Sathyamoorthi Perumal Temple: Hidden within a cave, this temple houses a massive reclining Vishnu statue, a truly mesmerizing sight. Since photography is prohibited, I had to rely solely on my eyes to capture the grandeur. Lord Vishnu, reclining on a two-tiered Adhiseshan (serpent), is depicted calming the furious serpent while celestial beings, Naradha, Tumburu, Surya, and Chandra, gaze upon him. The priest mentioned that while the exact origins of the temple remain unknown, it likely dates back to the 7th or 8th century.
What to do in Chettinad?
Beyond its architectural marvels, Chettinad offers experiences that are equally captivating.
Athangudi Handmade Tile Factory: Beyond the temple trail and the grandeur of ancient mansions, Chettinad offers a wealth of experiences waiting to be discovered. One of the most fascinating aspects is the stunning Chettinad tiles, which can be seen in almost every household. These tiles are not just decorative elements; they carry a rich legacy, passed down through generations, each with a unique story to tell.
To delve deeper into their craftsmanship, we visited the Athangudi Handmade Tile Factory, where we met Harish, a master artisan who, astonishingly, can create over 800 different designs. His 45 years of experience were evident in the effortless way he demonstrated his skills. In a matter of minutes, he crafted three tiles, each distinct from the other, showcasing his precision and expertise.
What fascinated me most was that only four to five colors are used in making these tiles, yet every single one looks remarkably different. Watching the entire process unfold, witnessing how these exquisite tiles are still made manually using traditional methods, was truly an awe-inspiring experience.
The Ghost Villages: Next on my itinerary was something that promised to give me goosebumps. When my guide, Kavita, suggested visiting one of the so-called “ghost villages,” for a fleeting moment, I thought she meant actual ghosts. Being the supernatural enthusiast that I am, my excitement surged – only to be immediately dampened by her next sentence: “But there are no ghosts here.” What a letdown for someone like me! However, the experience still sounded intriguing, so I decided to go ahead with it.
When I asked her why these villages were called “ghost villages,” she explained that it was simply because they were almost entirely deserted. Most of the houses stood abandoned, left behind by families who had moved away in search of better opportunities. Over time, these forsaken homes transformed into silent storytellers, waiting for visitors to step in and uncover their past. The writer in me was instantly captivated by the tales whispered through their exquisite exteriors and intricate interiors and I was not disappointed.
These magnificent mansions offer a glimpse into a glorious past, a reflection of the rich cultural heritage of our country. The concept of joint families living together in these grand houses paints a beautiful picture of an era gone by, but today, reality is far more ruthless. The once-flourishing homes, once filled with laughter and bustling with life, were abandoned by affluent merchants who left in search of fortune elsewhere. As nuclear families become the norm in urban metros, the charm of a laid-back, serene life spent with a large family feels almost like a distant dream.
Yet, these villages stand resilient, holding onto the memories of the past with grace and quiet dignity. Walking through their empty streets and peering into the forgotten corners of these mansions, I felt like I was stepping into a time capsule, where echoes of the past still lingered. Some of these ancestral homes remain locked, frozen in time, while a handful are still inhabited. A few have even been converted into heritage stays, offering visitors a chance to relive a fraction of their lost splendor.
I wished I had more time to explore additional villages and towns, but the clock was against me. Reluctantly, I promised myself a return visit before moving on to my next destination. The ghost village had not given me the supernatural encounter I initially craved, but it had given me something far more haunting – an unshakable glimpse into the impermanence of time and the stories it leaves behind.
Mahalakshmi Sarees and Local Markets: A trip to Chettinad is incomplete without indulging in its exquisite handwoven cotton sarees. Watching the artisans at Mahalakshmi Sarees weave their magic was an experience in itself. I also wandered through the local markets, where I couldn’t resist picking up handcrafted utensils, intricate woodwork, and, of course, bags full of snacks from Soundaram’s in Karaikudi, renowned for its mouthwatering murukkus and athirasams.
Chettinad Cuisine: Leaving Chettinad without tasting its legendary cuisine would be unthinkable. Known for its bold spices and aromatic flavors, the food here is distinct from typical South Indian fare. As a vegetarian accompanied by a non-vegetarian friend, we both found plenty to relish—from flavorful curries to crispy dosas and the best filter coffee I have ever had.
Where to Stay?
During my trip, I had the opportunity to stay at The Park’s Lotus Palace Chettinad, a stunning 17th-century mansion that transports you back in time. The moment I stepped in, I was captivated by the grandeur of the main courtyard, adorned with hand-painted walls and a traditional lotus rangoli inspired by the Sahasradala Padma, a 1,000-petal lotus pattern seen in Tamil Nadu’s kolam (rangoli) art. The mansion has been beautifully restored to combine heritage aesthetics with modern comforts.
With 15 well-appointed rooms, each showcasing traditional Athangudi tiles, wooden furniture, and vintage décor, the experience is nothing short of regal. The courtyard walls feature intricate paintings by temple artisans, and there are spectacular artworks from Raja Ravi Varma that add to the charm. The property was once known as “Ramayan,” and its entrance is adorned with sculpted figures from the Ramayana epic.
For relaxation, the Aura Spa provides a rejuvenating experience with signature therapies, and the Aqua Poolside Bar Lounge is the perfect spot to unwind with a drink. But what truly stood out was the exceptional dining experience, where traditional Chettinad cuisine was served on a banana leaf, capturing the authentic flavors of the region. Their filter coffee was among the best I’ve ever had! So, if you are looking for a place that seamlessly weaves opulence, tradition, and cultural richness, The Park’s Lotus Palace should be the place!
More than the grand mansions, exquisite temples, and rich culinary heritage, what truly touched my heart was the warmth of the people. Their genuine smiles and welcoming nature made my journey even more memorable. Chettinad is not just a place; it is a feeling – a timeless blend of history, culture, and human connection that lingers in the heart long after you leave.